Within the beauty and skincare community, AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and retinol are frequently mentioned, but which one is the best choice for your skin? This article will explain the effects and usage methods of these two ingredients while dispelling many myths surrounding them.
Both AHA (Retinoic Acid) and retinol are derivatives of Vitamin A, with differing chemical properties. Retinol and retinaldehyde are milder forms commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products. In contrast, AHA is typically used at a medical level, such as in the third-generation Differin or the first-generation Tretinoin.
When used at low concentrations, these ingredients can serve as exfoliants, promoting skin renewal and causing the outer layer to shed, which sometimes results in peeling. With increased concentration, they penetrate deep into the dermis, enhancing the skin’s moisture retention and stimulating collagen production. High concentrations of AHA are particularly effective in improving fine lines and minimizing pores.
However, when using these products, the skin often becomes drier in the initial stages due to the removal of old skin cells. Many patients wonder whether they can simultaneously use moisturizers. Doctors generally advise avoiding moisturizers if the goal is to treat acne; however, if the goal is to improve skin tone or texture, moderate use can make the skin feel more comfortable.
Regarding timing, doctors suggest using AHA or retinol in the evening, as these ingredients can degrade under sunlight, affecting their efficacy. As for the common concern about “re-darkening,” this typically results from shedding and dehydration leading to dull skin, unrelated to AHA or retinol.
In terms of dosage, retinal and retinol concentrations typically range from 0.5% to 1.0%, whereas AHA concentrations used in medical institutions are lower, ranging from 0.05% to 0.1%. It is important to note that retinol is generally less effective than AHA; therefore, if you desire more noticeable results, choosing AHA would be more effective.
Additionally, for pregnant women, doctors emphasize the necessity of caution when using AHA and retinol. Although topical doses carry lower risks compared to oral ones, the potential risk of teratogenicity cannot be ruled out. Doctors advise pregnant women to discontinue the use of related products immediately.
Overall, for those pursuing healthy and radiant skin, both AHA and retinol are undoubtedly reliable choices. When selecting products, it is recommended that concentrations be above 0.5% but below 1.0%, and adjustments should be made based on individual skin reactions.