Understanding the classification of whitening ingredients may lead you to ask which one is the most effective. However, it’s not an easy question to answer.
Understanding the classification of whitening ingredients may lead you to ask which one is the most effective. However, it’s not an easy question to answer.
Hydroquinone is the oldest and most effective ingredient in treating pigmentation. Many products on the market contain different concentrations of hydroquinone, some even adding other ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acid, retinoids, and vitamin C to enhance its effects. In Hong Kong, a registered drug containing 4% hydroquinone, 0.05% retinoic acid, and 0.01% fluocinolone steroid can effectively lighten deep-seated melasma. But does this powerful drug solve all whitening problems? Definitely not! Studies show that hydroquinone may be carcinogenic in mice, and prolonged use can cause “ochronosis,” a permanent deep-seated pigmentation problem. Japan, Europe, and South Africa have banned the use of hydroquinone-containing products. The U.S. considered legislation to ban it but did not follow through.
Some readers may wonder why the medical community continues to use hydroquinone despite its danger. In fact, the carcinogenic claims are based on a study of the effects of oral hydroquinone on mice. Hydroquinone is not prescribed for oral use in humans. Moreover, decades of hydroquinone use have not shown any evidence that topical application increases the risk of cancer. Ochronosis is only found in black people, and is rare in white and Asian skin. To be safe, doctors do not recommend long-term use of hydroquinone-containing products and usually stop use after six months and switch to milder products.
Therefore, many non-hydroquinone products and research have emerged to produce an ingredient that matches the effectiveness of hydroquinone. However, the variety of non-hydroquinone whitening ingredients on the market is so vast that it’s difficult to determine which is superior without clinical testing. Even if each ingredient is tested, different concentrations and application methods have different effects. With so many products and combinations claiming to be effective in lightening pigmentation, it’s no wonder that consumers are confused. In the next section, we will continue to discuss non-hydroquinone products.