In the past, when treating patients with acne or rosacea, azelaic acid often appeared in prescription ointments. Although its name evokes thoughts of the beautiful azalea flower, its role in skincare is quite significant.
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid composed of nine carbon atoms, naturally found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. The commensal fungus Malassezia on the skin produces azelaic acid when it grows in an oily environment. This explains why some individuals may experience skin issues like tinea versicolor due to fungal activity.
According to research, azelaic acid has a broad range of clinical applications, mainly used for treating acne, acne vulgaris, and rosacea, all of which are related to skin inflammation. Furthermore, azelaic acid has been proven to be effective in improving pigmentation issues and acne scars.
The effects of azelaic acid can be categorized into four main areas:
1. Anti-inflammatory: Inflammation can be viewed as a “fire,” and azelaic acid helps eliminate oxidative free radicals in the skin, gradually extinguishing this “fire.”
2. Antibacterial: Azelaic acid shows significant antibacterial effects, effectively reducing more than 99% of skin surface bacteria, including Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, and it also inhibits certain antibiotic-resistant bacteria.
3. Exfoliation: Azelaic acid has exfoliating properties, reducing keratinization on the skin’s surface by inhibiting keratin production and normalizing the condition of the stratum corneum.
4. Whitening: Its whitening effects should not be overlooked, as azelaic acid inhibits melanin production, improving uneven skin tone and pigmentation issues.
Overall, azelaic acid intervenes in the acne formation process by addressing inflammation, bacterial proliferation, and abnormal keratinization, helping to improve skin conditions.
Of course, using azelaic acid may also result in some side effects, such as mild stinging, peeling, or redness, which usually lessen with prolonged use. For first-time users, it is advisable to start with a small area and gradually expand the application as the skin adapts.
Regarding sun protection, azelaic acid itself does not cause photosensitivity, but because it reduces keratinization, the skin may be more prone to tanning or sunburn. Therefore, it is crucial to enhance sun protection measures during the usage period.
For those looking to combine azelaic acid with other acidic products, it’s suggested to start with azelaic acid alone to avoid excessive irritation. Once accustomed, consider combining it and use it alongside short-contact wash-off products like salicylic acid to enhance exfoliation effects.